Ryobi CS30 Model RY30020A will not rev up
I have a Ryobi CS30; model RY30020A that I purchased about 2 1/2 years ago. I have been having a problem with it this season. It starts with no problem at all. After I let it warm up, I press the trigger to rev it up; when I do that it shuts off. I took the muffler off and cleaned it and the Spark Arrestor. I replaced the spark plug. I also cleaned the carburetor, with carburetor cleaner, and cleaned fuel lines. I checked the fuel lines and made sure they are not clogged. After all that I am still having the same problem that it shuts off when I try to rev it up. I called Ryobi and was told by the technical representative that the carburetor needs adjustment and I should take it to a service dealer. The technical Representative told me that there is a screw somewhere on or inside the carburetor that needs to be adjusted. Since my two year warranty is over, it will cost me about $75.00 to have it adjusted. Can someone please tell me the location of this carburetor screw and adjust it? My old Ryobi lasted me over ten years with only minor adjustments and maintenance. Thank you for your help in advance. I don't know where they are on that model, but they are pretty common an all position carburetor. There are two screws - a high rpm and a low rpm screw (marked H and L). The low rpm screw needs adjusted. If you start the engine and start playing with the throttle while turning the screw you'll be able to tell right away when you hit the good acceleration setting. You won't have to go more than a quarter turn either way. Those two screws are pretty easy to find since they usually sit next to each other. You may have to take off the air cleaner to find them. marbobj, Thank you for the reply. This is a newer model and it does not have the two screws as you stated. My older model has the two screws. This newer model is supposed to have one screw inside the carburetor according to the Ryobi Technical representative. I took the carburetor apart and found what looks like a screw but not sure which way to adjust it. Is it accessible from the outside while the engine is running? I've never heard of one that you have to dismantle the carburetor to make a mixture adjustment. If that is the case, I have no idea without seeing a breakdown of the carburetor. I'll see if I can come up with a parts diagram for that one. ****I've checked and all I can find is the Zama part number with an assembly photo. That's not going to help any. I'll have to pass on this one - maybe some of the other guys here can do you some good. The Carburetor is a Walbro brand. It is a diaphram type carburetor. It did not have much information on it the only numbers on the carburetor are 4 510. Thats all. Thank you for trying. Are you sure you can't see the screw from the outside mabey,there is a restrictor cap over top the adjustment screw and its recessed in the carb casting. can some body send me a link to the manual of the ryobi bc30 to put the pull string back together I have the same model and was experiencing the same problem. I found the carb adjustment screws are visible, but not easily adjusted. On the front of the carb, right next to the air cleaner cover mine has 2 black studs that are recessed in aluminum looking rings. There are no slots for a screwdirver and there are barely visible flat spots on the studs. I took an electrical crimp connector for 22-18 AWG wire and friction fit it over the studs. I was then able to adjust the screws. To get mine running better I needed to adjust the screw closer to the air cleaner cover. Seems a lot of the 2 cycle carbs are what they call throw-aways. They don't allow the owners to adjust them anymore without special tools. You can buy a carburetor adjustment tool (looks sorta like a socket screwdriver that fits over the adjustment screws). I have also heard of folks using a dremel or grinder to remove the protective sleeve so they can access the screws. Another option might be to slip something over the screws (such as a piece of fuel line). Maybe you can find a replacement screw that allows for easier adjustment if/when you ever to remove them. The new carb screws are a pain. I plan to spend $10 (ebay, amazon, etc) and get an adjustment socket screwdriver because I don't expect things will ever go back to the way they were a few years ago. I think the tool is part # 530035560 Found this thread by chance and even though an older post, but couldn't help but chime in and add my 2 cents. I recently worked on a couple of Ryobi whackers the past few months, most recently a CS30 (RY30524 - s/n ATK1100009) The Ruixing carbs on some of these Ryobi are a pain in the butt in more ways than one. First, on the newer Ryobi's, the two adjusting screws cannot be adjusted unless you have the special Pac Man tool part number 308535003, and these can run as much as $23.00 Jury rigging a home made tool might work but I've found it more difficult to do a fine adjustment I did find the special tool for $13.71 here: Parts Accessories for Echo, Shindaiwa, Dolmar, Generac, Homelite. Chainsaw Trimmer supplies at Edge Engine To continue, both units would start but not run unless you found just the right position for the choke between full and half - a pain. If you do get one to eventually run but dies when you give it gas with the trigger, the L screw needs to be backed out a bit, and if you have Pac Man staring at you, good luck. What I've found on some Ruixing carbs is that the metering lever inside the carb that pulls the inlet needle open to let gas in based on the pulsing action of metering diaphragm barely pulls the inlet needle up even if you push it all the way down with a small screwdriver. Of course, if the metering diaphragm is shot (old, stiff) that could be the issue too. As someone said, these are cheap throw away carbs ($30.00+) but what if the new one you buy has a funky metering lever that won't open straight from the factory? Since I didn't have the special tool on the first one I worked on, I just bent the little metering lever up a bit until I was sure the inlet needle was opening. Not the best way, but it worked. At least it was getting gas and didn't bog down or die when I throttled it. Last but not least, I too have never seen an adjustment screw INSIDE one of these diaphragm carbs, be it a Walbro, Zama, or Ruixing. The tech may have mistakenly been looking at a screw that holds down the metering lever? If there a mixture screw INSIDE, as marbobj said, there's no way you can adjust the mixture without the thing running. Also learned that it is now against the law to sell these special carb adjustment tools to just anyone. The EPA is leaning on all manufactures to get the things running very lean to keep our air clean. So lean that sometimes they don't run at all. Cheers! Originally Posted by Home Handy marbobj, Thank you for the reply. This is a newer model and it does not have the two screws as you stated. My older model has the two screws. This newer model is supposed to have one screw inside the carburetor according to the Ryobi Technical representative. I took the carburetor apart and found what looks like a screw but not sure which way to adjust it. I have the same model which is 4 years old. Removed the carb found no adj. screws. Cleaned out the carb, spark arrester, replaced fuel filter. It idles perfect but bogs down in a few seconds. Runs at high speed when closing choke but only for a few seconds. Had a McCullough for 10+ years before it gave out. Just bought a Troy built, done with Ryobi Hello from a new member! I, too, have the walbro with two adjustment screws with no screwdriver head. I located the tool mentioned in the thread and have ordered it. I'm unable to see any markings as to which screw is for high and which is for low. Can someone direct me? Thanks. Jim It's been awhile, but if memory serves, the screw closest to the engine should be the low speed (idle) adjustment. There should be an L stamped on the carb body close to the screw if you can get a peek inside somehow without total disassembly. The choke dial cover should come off without any trouble. Again, I'm going by memory as I don't have one here at the moment. Just turn the screw CCW 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time untill it rev's without bogging down. Find a way of remembering the screws original position just in case. Hope that helped. Post again if you run into problems, I'll do what I can. You guys are life savers! I've been fighting my $@#%* Ryobi trimmer ever since getting it. I knew I needed to adjust the mixtures but after contacting Ryobi to try to get the tool (Pac Man type) and being denied, I was on the verge of shooting the $#@%* thing and buying an Echo. Get this - I've been starting it by taking off the plastic carb shroud and blocking the air intake with my hand and starting it on full choke. The primer appears to be working but doesn't inject enough fuel for a good 'wet' start no matter how many times it's pushed or how fast or slow. The other day I really needed it to blow leaves (with the blower attachment) and it was a cold morning. I had to lay it down and drip some fuel into the air intake to get it going. Plus, constantly playing with the choke lever during operation to get enough RPM to work the blower right. Once started, it runs great as long as the right mixture can be maintained by choking. After reading this thread and realizing the super-secret 'professional use only' screwdriver could be bought aftermarket, I just ordered one. I cannot wait to richen that $%#@^* up and get some easy starts and proper throttle response out of it. Believe it or not, these $90 Ryobis are actually decent cheap trimmers considering the 'half-shaft' engine. I had my previous one for 14 years and experienced no mechanical failures. The carb went bad on it, going wicked rich, and I trashed it since I have tried to work on these Walbro-type box carbs before with no success. In retrospect, I should have put a new carb on it, but at the price of a new trimmer, I took the fast way out. You can't take it to the shop once for the replacement cost. I don't usually have carb trouble on my OPE. For 2-cycles, I use mid-grade fuel with premium syn-blend oil at 50:1 with extra stabilizer and a dash of Marvel Mystery Oil in every can of gas. Same for 4-cycles but without the 2-cycle oil. They all stay happy and run sweet. One day I was coming out of Lowe's and a guy was out front with a trimmer like mine giving the store manger #$%^ and showing him how it wouldn't start, wouldn't 'take the gas', etc. Ryobi really messed up on the EPA settings on this carb. I bet this one trimmer has lost them more business than anything ever did before. And, in the unlikely event I can't help mine with the mixture adjustments, I haven't wasted a lot of money on the screwdriver and maybe I'll end up shooting it anyway and sharing that on You Tube . The tool arrived today and i immediately got the devil out of the shed. I put a few drops of fuel in the intake to get it started, then used it with the blower which is the best trial of the mixture since it's a wide-open throttle application. After it got hot and proceeded to lean out as usual, I put about 1/2 turn rich on each needle. It took the throttle then but was almost '4-cycling' on top end - too rich. So I cut my adjustment back to about 1/4 turn and it was done. I used it for about a half-hour then put it up while I used the mulching mower on the leaves for about an hour. I got the trimmer out again to clean up from the mower, and while this was not a good 'cold-soak' test on starting, I went through the starting procedure its supposed to use (choke, primer) and it did start and ran fine. BTW, I use the blower to clean up mowers after mulching leaves. The trimmer blower attachment makes it a natural for blowing up under the air shroud to blow dust out of the cooling fins - I can see how that would be nearly impossible with a backpack or regular handheld. Anyway, thanks again for the info and I have saved my trimmer with that little 'pac-man' tool. The next day (Saturday) it still wouldn't start cold, so I got it started and used it (still running fine after starting), and made another adjustment. This time, I let it idle and got the Low side as rich as I could without bogging it down. Then I checked the High side at WOT, making it rich as possible without 4-cycling. Then I put it away out in the tool shed to get a cold soak. This morning I went out and worked the primer about 7 or 8 times, threw it on 'Choke' and it started after about 4 pulls. I'm good with that. Makes a huge difference when you don't have to pour gas down the intake! It actually was a little too rich when it fired up so I'll adjust the primer strokes to see what it wants. I used it then to blow off the drive and front porch and all was good. I have a CS30 with a carb that does not have adjustments on it. After digging into to it further I found that it had a air leak on the gasket between the cylinder head and crank body. There is only three screws that holds the head and body together, these screws backed off allowing air to be sucked into the crank area therefore the weed eater did not idle or run good at all. I took and broke the weed eater completely down and cleaned it up good so that the Ultra Black silicone would stick and I applyed a thin coat to the gaskets surfaces then put the head and body back together. When I installed the three screws back in, I put some Red lock tight on the threads and made sure they were good and tight. I also put Ultra Black on the gasket on the back cover of the crank body. If you do not stop the engine from sucking air in except through the carb you will never get it to idle or run good. If you do not have good mechanical skills, you need to find someone who does to do this. Mine now idles and runs great.
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