Questions about installing pocket door
Hello, I'm Nels and I want to install a pocket door in our bathroom. The opening is 36. After looking on the internet I found one instruction that says: a pocket door frame (opening) needs to be twice the width of the door plus 1 3/4. Here comes the stupid question, does that opening include the opening you want the door to cover? Thanks so much. Yes....for a 36 door you would need 73 3/4 of total space, free of electrical or plumbing. And just so you are prepared, you will demolish the half of the wall to where the door will be hidden and rebuild it. So you have to ask yourself one question.......are you ready??? I thought the quote was... You have to ask yourself one question....do you feel lucky? Well...do ya?. Well....do ya...punk? That's what fired them up. Hope we didn't scare off the OP Pocket doors are an undertaking, but totally doable. Demolishing half a wall makes me more interested in the project, but that's just me.... Thanks for the info. I finally found my way back to this site. I ordered the pocket door from Lowes yesterday as a matter of fact. So i guess the answer to some of your questions.......yes, i do feel lucky.............however.......i have been known to make mountains out of molehills in short order.............this should be fun. Hopefully you are using a Johnson Hardware frame and track kit? according to the order it's JELD-WEN. Is that a good one? Where can I find the one you suggested? and why do you recommend it over any others? I appriciate your thoughts. Have a happy new year. Nels Didn't mean to confuse the issue. Is this some sort of pre-hung pocket door? I know around here they sell pre-made frames, for use with slab doors, I just think they look kinda cheap. Overall I like most Jeld-Wen stuff, except their patio doors (though they are better than many). Here's the Johnson stuff...Johnson Hardware® POCKET DOOR HARDWARE . I think most of the Pro's here recommend them as well. There may be other brands as good...but I know there are a bunch out there that are cheap junk. Just a preference, I like the premade frames rather than having to build one using the steel studs. Johnson makes a quality product, however. With the premade frames, you build a rough opening, slap in the frame, install the trolleys and door, and you're out. May want to make sure it is a non-bearing wall with that much removed, even for ceiling joists. What is above it? Gary Good point, Gary. One other thing.....when you go to attach your drywall, don't use standard 1 5/8 drywall screws, as they will penetrate the drywall, framing and stick into the opening, potentially scarring your door. Use 1 screws for that area. Fortunatly when we built(06) the house I took a ton of pictures while in the frameing stage with my digital camera. We have 10' ceilings and there is nothing in the way. The opening going into the bathroom is 8. Why I didn't think to have a pocket door framed in at the time is beyond me.......mybe it's one of those senior moments things. Thanks for your suggestions and have a Happy New Year!! Gunguy, or anyone- any experience with pocket door track from HAWA by Hafele? I'm putting in 4 pocket doors in my reno and architect spec'd HAWA but GC says people like the Johnson tracks. I'd love to hear feedback from anyone that's used the HAWA fittings. gracias Architects always go high end. These are meant for higher end applications with doors weighing upwards of 80 to 175 lbs. Not your typical door. GC is closer to reality. thanks chandler, won't cost me a penny more to go high end. these are solid core doors, not sure what they weigh but HAWA have fittings spec'd for up to 88lbs and a step up to one from 88-175lb. I imagine we're using the lower weight rating. I'd love feedback on the actual quality of these vs Johnson. in other words, if someone says- these are really sweet and glide like butter, but expensive, that would help me out. Or- not a superior track at all.., the Johnson actually work better. thanks guys
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