Need replacement parts for Craftsman Radial Arm saw, Model 113.29411
Howdy folks, I'm trying to resurrect an old hand-me-down 10 arm saw, have spent several weeks on it but just ran into what may be an insurmountable problem - two critical missing parts, as in the ones that support/lock the arm on the vertical column (I could KILL my older brother right now for this! ) This is the Sears parts diagram: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...hdMod=11329411 The missing parts are: 54 on diagram Latch, arm PART NUMBER: 30479 55 on diagram Shoe, brake PART NUMBER: 30661 But they're not available anymore. I found a used Brake shoe on Ebay, but that's not the most important part, the latch is, and I'm striking out on that. By looking at other Craftsman arm saws it appears that these parts were unchanged on many newer models, but I'm stumped on weed my way through the entire Sears parts database for saws to find suitable and available newer parts. Anyone have any great ideas (or the parts!)? Also, it's really hard to see any detail on available manuals/diagrams for this saw, ancient paper scans turned into PDF's, the image quality is terrible - I'm not sure that these parts do anything but hold the arm on the column via gravity - as in they bolt to the column under the arm, but don't bolt to the arm - if that's the case, I could make my own replacement parts from stuff in my shop. Can anyone confirm that this is indeed the case? Heck, I'm thinking that I could just tap the existing holes in the sides of the column and bolt a metal strap to it and that would suffice? TIA for any help or comments Nevermind, sort of.....found the parts, they'd fallen on the floor behind a workbench, but now I have a new problem: Using a chain winch and carefully moving the column tube up/down while rotating the arm, after a solid hour of frustration I finally got the arm latch bolted in place. But for the life of me I cannot see possibly get the brake shoe installed, there was barely room for the latch!? I can see an indentation on the shoe where either the Arm Lock Pin (part 25) or the Latch Arm Shaft Assembly (part 24) has contacted it and pushed it in under pressure, but how does the shaft pin lock in the arm latch if that shoe is in the way? Of course these parts were factory assembled so I can't find instructions on put this damn thing back together...... Problem solved! Woohoo! Found an ancient generic-type service manual online that lays out step by step solve darn near every problem not addressed in the original Sears Operating Manual: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/1082.pdf Craftsman 10 Radial Arm Saw Field Service Manual Starting at page 19: PROBLEM: (1) Radial Arm will not lock between index positions. Source of Problem: Brake shoe has moved out of position in arm. Won't retype the rest of it, there's like 48 steps from start to finish - the key to this repair is to basically do things the opposite way I was trying to do it (never fails, LOL) - instead of raising the arm/column, you LOWER them: put a board on the saw table, lower the arm until the carriage is resting on the board, then keep lowering the column tube until it come out of the arm - that gives you access to the recessed area where the shoe is housed. Much safer than having the whole arm assembly wobbling in the breeze while hanging from a chain hoist too! I've got that same saw, but have never had a considerate brother take it apart for me and lose parts, so I was reading your posts and sympathizing with you, but to no avail. Sorry I couldn't help, but glad you got things in order and found a good reference. Once you get it set up and running, it will probably run for years and years. Mine's in my storage barn right now, since my Step son wanted me to store his Delta Unisaw, 5HP with a 6' run off table and router, so I am storing it in my SHOP Heh. I bought the accessory drill chuck for the saw too, can use it as a drill press or router, got the sanding disk also. But since the detents are so worn out, lining everything back up square after moving the motor out of the normal crosscut position seems to be a royal PITA, have to check/adjust all 3 axis every time. Finally got it all rewired - almost had a heart attack when I took the electrical covers apart - my Dad, an electrical engineer no less (!?!), had rewired it to power a bolt-on light and a canister vac for the dust port on the blade guard that would come on automatically whenever the saw power switch was turned on - but the IDIOT used the ground wire as the return instead of the neutral, and that green wire is also grounded to the saw arm inside - Ground fault = electrocution! Then again, he did that back in the early 70's, long before GFI's were even invented, but he had slow blow fuses in his box, not rapid-reacting modern breakers, so he still should have known better . Anywho, it's now finished - had to rebuild the canister vac, idiot brother ran it for years without a vac bag, sawdust was choking the motor - cannot believe a 70's era Sears household vac still works, period, and has fantastic suction too (I modified it to take a normal canister vac bag). One thing I also had and installed but haven't seen in any photos before is a plastic dust shroud that bolts to a piece of sheet metal around the column - it has two vac ports, one ~ 3 and one ~ 1 1/2, both plugged, because my Dad had built a slide-out box that sits inside the cabinet to collect sawdust that bounced off the shroud and dropped down through the elevation table. It's this thing: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/1621.pdf but without the adapters needed to hook up to a standard shop vac, of course. I almost went insane building a manifold for my wet/dry vac with two blast gates I got from Woodworker's Supply online, every single fitting I could find was exactly 1/8 off in ID or OD. Finally cobbled a system together after modifying some PVC plumbing parts and using several 3 x 3 rubber connectors w/hose clamps, but I will NEVER buy vac stuff from WS again - their website doesn't list the part ID/OD for ANYTHING, and it appears all are designed to ONLY work with the dust collection/vac systems they sell, i.e. a proprietary design not compatible with any other common vac systems on the market. See attachments for the finished system.
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