Information on French Cheese
Charles de Gaulle is reputed for having said, "How can anyone govern a nation that has 246 different kinds of cheese?" France is known for its "smelly cheeses," so whether smelly or not, cheese is a definitive cultural symbol of France. French cheese has a rich history, specific use, and nearly as many varieties and properties as does wine---but there is no need to fear the local fromager, French cheese can be tamed, understood, and above all others enjoyed.
Cultural Role
Cheese has its own personal place during the course of a French meal. The French dinner is a series of courses, and not just a restaurant dinner, but in the home as well. Most homes have specific "cheese drawers" in the refrigerator to house multiple varieties at any one time---sometimes as many as eight to 10 types. The French meal begins with an appetizer and aperitif drink, usually taken as a tapas. The meal officially begins with a light starter course, followed by the main course, then the salad, which is then followed by a selection of cheeses before the meal finishes with a dessert (sometimes the cheese course will replace the dessert course), and is then all topped of with a digestif drink. A French meal without the cheese course, or cheese offered with the dessert, is not a French meal.
Types
Charles de Gaulle was slightly above the mark with 246 varieties, and while there are many varieties of French cheese, the number rests more realistically around 100. Among the most common types are Brie, chèvre (goat cheese), Camembert, Comte de Gruyère, Roquefort, Tomme de Savoie, and Munster. Most are named from the region from which they originate, similar to the naming of French wines.
Terroire
Many of the classic French cheeses are named for the regions they derive from, in part due to the French concept of terroire, meaning the influence the land and environment has had on the product created. The concept of terroire has been described as the "taste of place," influenced by the soil, climate, temperature, and historical methods distinct to the region for producing cheese. A designation of "terroire" is represented by the mark PDO (Appellation d'Origine Controllée) which signifies that the cheese conforms traditionally with the region of its origination.
Pasteurization
French cheese is not pasteurized, this is a major factor distinguishing the taste of "French" classic cheese from most American produced cheeses. Many French cheeses imported into the United State, however, are pasteurized for exportation due to U.S. Department of Agriculture regulations that disallow the importation of unpasteurized cheeses aged less than 60 days, for safety reasons. Pasteurization is a safety measure against the growth of unsafe bacteria, but pasteurization of milk effectively creates "dead cheese," which tastes exactly as is sounds, dead. Some of the most distinct flavors of French cheese come from young unpasteurized forms of Brie, chèvre, and Camembert, and unfortunately cannot be exported to the United States.
Suggestions
Pay attention to the season, as most fresh French cheese is not produced year round. If in doubt, ask the local fromager, and try to avoid cheeses wrapped in plastic. Cheese needs to breath. Cheeses from a supermarket in France, such as Ed, Carrefour, Casino, or Monoprix, usually contain pasteurized milk, while cheeses from a fromagerie or street market are more likely to be created from raw milk. During the cheese course, it is common (and quite tasty) to pair French cheese with a variety of cured meats, fruits, breads, nuts, and dessert or sweet wines.
Tags: French cheese, French meal, cheese course, begins with, Charles Gaulle, concept terroire
