What Do You Think Of Usb Replacement Receptacles

Online I've seen several companies releasing USB receptacles as replacements for standard receptacles, however none are very descriptive about electrical and safety requirements. Does anyone know whether these are really safe and acceptable to use? Better yet, has anyone tried one?
As one example, I really like the idea of the Quattro USB receptacles from Currentwerks - USB Outlet Quattro | Current Werks
Some questions that come to mind include:
- They have essentially no information about box fill - how can I figure what to allocate for these?
- They don't say anything about UL or other certifications. Don't they need one? Is it implied? A couple of the companies seem to be having PR battles over which is fully UL certified. What?
- They don't say anything about overcurrent protection. Don't they need a fuse or something? Or is that implied?
- Does the code object to low voltage devices like this sharing a junction box with line voltage devices?
- It would be convenient to have a receptacle like the above quattro share a 2-gang box with a standard receptacle, if they hadn't designed it with an integrated single gang faceplate. But might there be code or safety reasons they are intentionally preventing this?

Till these devices display a proper U.L. Listed logo, I would assume they haven't been tested by U.L. and wouldn't use them. The company doesn't seem to know as much about electrical devices as they do about electronic devices. It's actually pretty common knowledge that nominal voltage is 120 volts and not 110 volts. This makes me wonder also if they even realize these devices need to be U.L. Listed.

I was thinking about something like this yesterday. My application would be to add a raceway from an existing box, and use the Quattro with a new 2-gang box. I would put a switch between the line and the USB device. Even though these say no vampire draw, and that would be easy to accomplish, I'd like to have a cutoff to take this off the circuit.
Regarding the Duo, I don't like the idea of having a USB plug that close to a 120V receptacle. I've seen too many instances of 120V plugs partially pulled out, and a USB male connector has a lot of exposed metal that could short exposed blades quite nicely.
There are any number of opinions on UL. In some industries I have talked to pros who say as long as it's CSA, it's OK with them because UL costs are so much higher and CSA listing is comparable. But if the competition has UL listings and you're not getting contracts because you don't have them, you don't have much choice.

cooper wiring devices makes one, both UL and CSA Listed.
Shop Cooper Wiring Devices 15-Amp White Decorator Dual USB Electrical Outlet at Lowes.com
At $20 (at least at lowes) I'd have a hard time putting down $20 for one.

Box fill would be the same as any other type of device, two times the wire size connected to the device. IE: if there is #14 wire connected to the device, the device itself requires 4 cu in.
It wouldn't need any overcurrent device other than the one that is already in place for the branch circuit. It is no different than a plug in USB adapter.
The low voltage is contained in the device. It is a non-issue.

Pass Seymour/Legrand also makes a version of this.

Cool. I didn't know there were any from the normal brands. There's a lot that looks good about that one from Cooper, but they don't say anything about the electronics. The reviews say it's too low an output for charging the larger devices - oh well.

I fail to see the use in one. Every computer has 3, 4 or 5 USB ports on them that will charge any device you have. Having one in the wall invites the uneducated to prod and pry into it to see what makes it tick. Maybe there's a good reason to have them.

I can share my personal experience Larry. Behind the headboard are adapters for the Kindle and a cell phone. I would not need these with a receptacle that had the USB built-in. My laptop also will not charge anything if it is in sleep mode or turned off.

Yeah. A lot of the new electronics are using usb type connections. This would make it very convenient.

I fail to see the use in one. Every computer has 3, 4 or 5 USB ports on them that will charge any device you have.
I would have said that a few years ago also but we no longer have a desktop computer (or even a desk). We have laptops where the USB ports are not powered unless the computer is in use. Not only do my wife and I have cell phones that recharge over USB, but the kids just got mp3 players and portable speakers that recharge over USB: 7 devices and counting.
We could have wall warts scattered through the house but they're obnoxious bulky things that keep getting lost.

OK, I can see clearly, now. Just use USB to whatever your appliance is and charge direct from the receptacle.

I would install these in my kitchen personally, as we charge our phones and such on top of the microwave.
These USB receptacles would be nicer if they could connect to a central computer.

I can see where this would be neat to have, but it's way overpriced for what it is. You can do the same thing with a cheap ($10 or less) powered USB hub. You can even modify said hub into a high speed charging center (you lose the data capability though) with a few dabs of solder. It doesn't even need to be hooked to a computer to work.
Justin, the reason these can't be hooked to a computer is (aside from the hv/lv in the same box problem) the ports are configured for high current/high speed charging. This means the data pins are shorted together. This is what devices capable of high speed charging look for so that they know they can draw higher current (up to 1A). On straight up USB, the device pulls 100mA and negotiates with the host for up to 500mA.
If anyone is interested, this is how you do it (I used an iHome mini hub that cost $8.99)..
Take ANY USB hub (doesn't even need to be USB2.0) with an external AC adapter and open it up
On each port you want to enable high speed charging on (one per amp of adapter rating, so if the adapter is 2.5A, convert 2 ports max) bridge the center two pins with a dab of solder, then using an XACTO knife CAREFULLY scratch away the copper traces that connect the center pins to the chip. That's it! Just make sure you mark those ports (I colored the port with a sharpie). The remaining ports will still charge devices, but just at low current, as if they were plugged into a computer's USB port. And again, any ports that have been converted are no longer going to be used for data.

If you're an Apple user don't bother! Installed one in daughters room today, will not charge iPod touch, iPad, or iphone4. The only thing I could get it to charge is my old nano....don't bother!

The brand I had my eye on, just updated their info and answered my questions. Can anyone confirm whether the certifications sound complete, since they're not an electrical company? They also said there is no reason not to put it in a two gang box next to a standard duplex receptacle: but I don't know what that requires other than it fits.
- Output: 22 Watts 5VDC 4.4A (2.1A maximum per port). The Cooper brand only has 700mA total output across both slots whereas the iPad wants a lot more. This ought to do the job.
- Their www site implied an integrated faceplate for the Quattro, but they responded by email that I can use any Decora style.
- I don't know if this was in response to my email also, but now they say he Duo or Quattro has been safety tested to meet or exceed the 2011 NEC ( National Electrical Code ). This code is updated every 3 years the 2011 NEC has been in effect August of 2010. In addition the Duo or Quattro has been certified to the following UL standards: UL 1310 CSA 22.2 No. 223, UL 60950-1 CSA 22.2 No 60950-1 and UL 514c (face plates)

Update on my end, too. I was in the Denver airport the other day and they were everywhere, especially at the communications deskettes scattered throughout.

In addition the Duo or Quattro has been certified to the following UL standards: UL 1310 CSA 22.2 No. 223, UL 60950-1 CSA 22.2 No 60950-1 and UL 514c
That's interesting, but when will they get the U.L. Listing? Tested to U.L. standards is fine, but it doesn't really mean squat till they have a U.L. Listing. I'd wait till they are listed.

I just bought one on Amazon. Just be careful - this device is much larger than a standard 120V plug, so you need to measure before you buy one.

- Output: 22 Watts 5VDC 4.4A (2.1A maximum per port). The Cooper brand only has 700mA total output across both slots whereas the iPad wants a lot more. This ought to do the job.
I was going to caution you to beware of low USB power output on these, but I see you got the answer on that - and that updates my info too. Thanks.

I bought the Duo and use it to charge an iPhone and an iPad simultaneously. It's only rated 3.2A compared to 4.4A for the Quattro.
I am glad I had a deep 2-gang with a single-gang mud ring and stranded wire. This would be tough with 12 AWG and a single-gang box.
One odd thing is that the iPad will start charging immediately when plugged in, but the iPhone sometimes seems to require that the USB end of the cable be unplugged and then re-plugged to start charging. I found this on both ports with different cables and regardless of whether the iPad was charging on the other port. Need to further isolate.

Apple products, especially ipads, are very picky about what they will charge from. Some charging devices are 'Apple Ready' and others are not. There are actually adapters which trick the Apple device into charging from any USB port.
Amazon.com: XMultiple iPad USB Charging Adapter: Computers Accessories

I guess I can see some use for such a plug and I guess they are safe enough but I never charge anything from a usb port and always use a charger. I never have cared for those new smart phones anyway and have always used a standard cell phone. I am also on pre-paid as I rarely use my phone enough to justify paying more money. Until recently my pre-paid service didn't have smart phones and now they do. I could see these though in new homes or remodels probably sooner rather than later but for my household not likely even if I do have to replace a plug.


Tags: think, replacement, receptacles, will charge, high speed, high speed charging, speed charging, anything about, Quattro been, 1310 60950-1

Steel Stud Crimper

A few of you have mentioned in earlier posts using a crimp tool for assembling steel studs. I tried a Malco stud crimper recently when assembling a wall with 25 gauge steel studs (the kind the local Home Depot sells) and was not real happy with it. I felt that the result was FAR less sturdy than previous efforts using self-tapping screws. What I ended up doing was to use the crimper to hold the wall together during assembly, then going back and adding a screw at each joint. I still had to use my c-clamp to hold the joint together when adding the screw - the screw would push the crimp apart while it was drilling into the stud (after going through the track). Not a real big time saver.
What am I doing wrong? Am I: (1) expecting too sturdy a joint from the crimper; (2) using too few crimps per joint; (3) using too light a gauge of steel (the crimper can be used with 22 gauge as well); or (4) using the crimper incorrectly? None of the above? All of the above?
Any help would be appreciated. No instructions came with the crimper.

Go to http://www.malco.com and see if you can find out from those guys what the problem is with their steel stud crimper. Nothing like getting advice from the horse's mouth.

I used the crimper on a few walls. The crimper worked excellent with the heavier guage studs which are available at independant building supply yard and I had the same result as you with the HD studs. Incidently I found a cordless hammer drill with a dimpler made the job of fastening sheetrock much easier as the kick of the drill starts the screw through the metal....Start the screws at the bottom and work up as each screw will keep the stud from floating


Tags: steel, stud, crimper, adding screw, gauge steel, steel studs, stud crimper, with gauge

Repair Dryer Heating Element By Twisting

Hey!
I was about to order a new dryer heating element because my coil-type broke. But I thought I might twist the broken ends together extraordinarily tightly!
Will this work assuming the contact of both ends are excellent and permanent?
...30 minutes later ...I twisted them together; check out the pic:
http://www.tonytonini.com/element.jpg
I also made sure the coiling was very evenly distributed and perfectly in line.
What do you think?
-Tony

UPDATE:
Well, after a few days, I've been using the mended elemt and so far so good. Everything is working normally and the heat is good.
I have always heard that elements like these (and in toasters) were nothing but a thick wire. If that's the case, then I'll try mending it. I'm just wondering if it will last, so I have a new coil element ($20) on standby just in case.
Any qualififed person out there with any comments?
-Tony

What you have is a resistive heating element. By shortening it you have changed the properties of the element. You can expect it to get a little hotter increasing the temperature in the dryer and raising the possibility of a fire hazard.
Of course, the correct fix is to replace the element. $20 is negligible compared to an insurance deductable...

mdtaylor is absolutely correct. As well, as the element heats and cools, it will loosen the connection,,,,, more trouble than you want there.
Change the element, it isn't worth the worry.

Thanks for your reply.
I DID know that it would be a little shorter, but do you think shortening a 10 foot wire an inch would generate enough added heat to create a fire hazzard?
Also, if I made the mend PERMANENT (as I stated in my original post) would there be a chance it could work its way apart? And if it DID work its way apart, why would that be any different than the broken element I had in the first place? Isn't that just the same thing that just happened to me with the factory-installed element?
Also, if the element would seperate, that breaks the continuity which means ...no electricity. Again, I don't see a difference with that scenario and the factory element breaking on me.
Any other thoughts on those comments?

If the repair started to separate it would likely cause sparks. A single element that fails separates cleanly and completely. Your repair as it fails will likely cause a load of sparks.
If you decide to NOT change the element in favor of saving $20 please do not mention this forum as a place you received the OK to do the repair!

OK, that's a good point (about sparks), thanks!


Tags: repair, dryer, heating, element, likely cause, that just, work apart

Options For Paneling And Masonite Siding Boards

Is there anyone that has ideas on the best way to cover paneling either by painting/papering over it/or a paint finish that will work with the groves on the paneling. The room is terribly dark in this old farmhouse with dark paneling.....also one of the rooms has the masonite siding boards inside.....also was interested to know what finish is used to appear like suede? Thanks so much, this is a great forum.....with fast replys....

it is easy to paint if you like
wash down with t.s.p
prime with zinnser 1-2-3
and then use any paint you like on top
for wallpaper
wash with t.s.p
paint with sizing
and your ready to paper
if you want to get rid of the grooves
you can use dyna patch or durabond but dont put to much at once
if you do and have to sand a lot it will raise the nap on the panel
good luck

We just did this in my den that had wood panelling. sand the walls a little to rough them up. The primer will bond better. use an oil based quick drying primer like the Sherwin Williams brand called Pro Block. I heard kilz works well too. do all of you trim work first ( 2 coats) also paint the groovs with a soft two inch brush. one coat may be fine. Finally do two coats with the roller. This worked real well for me. I had real wood paneling but it was the thin junky stuff, not thick boards. If you have any more questions, let us know. good luck

This post is meant to be a cover-all answer to people that wish to wallpaper over paneling, brick, or other unusual textured surface.
Preparation: Remove all nails or other protruding objects. For textured surfaces, knock down any high points. For paneling, now is the time to ensure that the paneling is secure by adding additional nails. For slick surfaces/paneling, wash with TSP (TriSodium Phosphate) or equivalent grease cutting cleaner.
Now, you can hang bridging material. This is a thick, blank wallpaper designed for irregular surfaces. Once hung, this will bridge the grooves in paneling or other unusual surface allowing for the ultimate application of wallpaper or it can even be painted.
Alternate/additional advice: The application of joint compound to the grooves of paneling is an additional precaution when using bridging material. Some wallpaper installers use the joint compound, then primer technique instead of bridging material.
For ceramic tile or other slick/glossy surface, sand the surface with 200-400 grit sandpaper followed by rinsing with TSP. Apply a prep coat and then hang your bridging material. Examples of prep coats are Roman's R-35, Zinsser's Z-54, California Paint's Prep' N Size, Golden Harvest's BITE, Muralo's Adhesium, Swing Paint's Prep-Coat, and Benjamin Moore's Wall-Grip.
You may obtain bridging material at most home improvement stores. You may find out more by visiting the following manufacturers online:
Eisenhart Wallcoverings Co.
http://www.eisenwalls.com/
FLEXi WALL SYSTEMS
http://www.flexiwall.com/
Imperial Home Decor Group (Online purchase capability)
http://www.ihdg.com/
Cavalier Prints (Online and direct purchase capability)
http://www.wallliner.com/
__________________
Rebecca Schunck
http://www.wallpaperinstaller.com/
Can I wallpaper over paneling/brick or other rough surface? Forum Post. Wallpaper. Decorate. DoItYourself.com Forums. 04 September 2002. Retrieved 15 November 2002. DoItYourself.com. http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...threadid=88109


Tags: paneling, masonite, siding, boards, bridging material, brick other, capability http, good luck, grooves paneling, joint compound, other unusual, over paneling, over paneling brick

Lomanco Power Vent Attic Fan Motor

Lomanco Power Vent Attic Fan Motor dead and I was looking to replace it a better and more quite one if it is possible.

You want to replace the whole unit or just the motor ?
If you wanted to change just the motor you would check with a place like Grainger. They sell all types of motors. They have cross reference charts to help find the correct motor.

I just want to replace the motor.ty

May as well buy a few of them, as they have the shortest life of anything around your house. Too much heat will fry the motors quickly. Have you ever thought of passive evacuation of hot air? Cheaper and more effective.

I have no clue about this one.sorry

Did we lose you ?
Chandler is talking about things like ridge vents where the heat is naturally convected thru an opening in the peak of the roof without a fan.
If you want to replace the motor you need to go up and write down all the parameters off the motor plate. If the motor is dead you may want to just go ahead and pull it out now. It's much easier trying to find a replacement with the motor out.
Word of caution.....you may have to remove the fan blades from the motor with it in place. Depending on how the motor is mounted you might not be able to remove the motor and blades together.

No u did not.Now I understand(ty for explaining) and I have changed the motor before I do have the motor out like u said and will this be(Master Flow 1/5 HP Replacement Motor Model # PVM11) any good sold in hp?ty

Did you check on warranty replacement? Many attic fans have lifetime warranties on the motor.
EDIT Looks like Lomanco is only 5 yrs I guess.

it is 12 years old.Is it 1/5 hp better than 1/7 hp and lomanco 1/10 hp or not really?

As has been said....pull the old motor out and go to a motor shop or Graingers or similar and get a comparable motor. You want to keep the same HP rating if possible. Less HP will put a strain on the motor...more HP will put a strain on the wiring and controls. 1/5 vs 1/4...no big deal. 1/10 (which I've never heard of for this application) vs 1/5...yeah...kind of a big difference.
It lasted 12 yrs? Thats a lot better than what most people report

A 1/5 or 1/7 hp motor will work ok. Keep in mind..... the physical size of the motor, the rotation direction, the shaft size and speed should match what your current motor was.
When you change to a different size motor.....all parameters must be checked.

1/10 selling in amazan and couple of other places and it is lomanco.For like u guys said get the one that worked for twelve years than one that even won't match( have to learn hard way),unless put a whole new one.tyvm and I will replace soon and let u know thanks again.


Tags: lomanco, power, vent, attic, motor, want replace, Attic Motor, better than, just motor, Lomanco Power, Lomanco Power Vent

How Often Is Wheel Alignment Necessary

I recently bought 4 new tires for an 03' Jetta. I want to get an alignment to make sure the tires last as long as possible. My question is how often is an alignment necessary? I have heard that a pot hole can throw the alignment off and I have heard that the alignment will stay the same until parts wear, bend, or break.
At the local tire center, an alignment is $69 and a lifetime alignment is $169. Is the lifetime alignment worth the extra $100?
Thanks.

Well you do want to get an alignment of course when you have those new tires installed, I don't know what a lifetime alignment would be but I'm guessing they're offering you an alignment every so often for free for as long as you own your car ?
I'd just get the one time alignment for now and maybe a year or so later another one if you notice car not going straight when steering wheel on center position or if you see tires wearing out uneven

Thanks for the opinion.
To clarify, the lifetime alignment offers free alignments, tire balancing, and tire rotation every 5,000 miles. If, as you suggest, I might need another alignment next year, I might as well pay the extra $100 to get a free alignment every year as necessary.
Why would a car go out of aligment or do they?

Cars do go out of alignment all the time
Potholes, wear and tear...
If a suspension part goes, but is not noticed for a while, the vehicle could easily go out
IMO people don't get aligned nearly enough, as they don't readily see alignment problems until they appear as other problems (like oddly worn tires, pulling when braking...etc...), and don't realize ho much a bad alignment can wear/break more stuff...or how much it affect gas mileage!!!!!
I think 169 for an alignment and rotation every 5K is a great idea
The shop won't make much money on it, it's to keep you coming back to their shop, so when you finally do need work done/tires, you'll think of them

Originally Posted by grenouille
Thanks for the opinion.
To clarify, the lifetime alignment offers free alignments, tire balancing, and tire rotation every 5,000 miles. If, as you suggest, I might need another alignment next year, I might as well pay the extra $100 to get a free alignment every year as necessary.
Why would a car go out of aligment or do they?
On a final comment, I don't like to pay for future services such as extended protection plans and the like because when you go back to get what you already paid for they treat you like you're trying to borrow money from them

Originally Posted by grenouille
Thanks for the opinion.
To clarify, the lifetime alignment offers free alignments, tire balancing, and tire rotation every 5,000 miles. If, as you suggest, I might need another alignment next year, I might as well pay the extra $100 to get a free alignment every year as necessary.
Why would a car go out of aligment or do they?
While the lifetime alignment offer sounds like a good deal i would be a bit skeptical. If the shop is truly offering an alignment every 5,000 miles then they are either going to have to find things wrong quite often or they are going to loose a lot of money. Even if they are simply connecting alignment heads, calibrating, and recording numbers without making any adjustments, the time involved will require them to find something wrong more often than not in order to make a profit.
I generally recommend an alignment once a year and usually in the late spring after most of the potholes have been repaired. Or if symptoms or conditions suggest there may be an alignment problem.

I agree. Once a year or every 15,000 miles or so.

I had a lifetime alignment on my 00 VW from Firestone Master Care. I only took it in for one more alignment before selling the car and that was only because I put struts on it. I first bought the plan when I lived in Nashville, TN and had the re-alignment done in Richmond, VA.
They treated me fine and did not try to upsell anything. No complaints, no regrets.

unless something is damaged or wearing out on your car (high mileage etc), then you should not need frequent alignments. Checking toe and camber is very easy to do yourself, and if you can confirm your tires are basically square and parallel, just a few minutes of your time can save a few hours at the tire shop.


Tags: often, wheel, alignment, necessary, lifetime alignment, alignment every, every miles, rotation every, aligment they, alignment every year, alignment every year necessary, alignment every year necessary would

Garage Door Cable Came Off

I have a single spring garage door with a cable pulley on either side.
The cable on the right side has come off due to my daughters numerous attempts to close it (5)!
My question is, can I repair this without messing with the tension spring.
If so how?
Thanks
CB

What state is the door in now? Down or up?

It's down but i have no trouble opening it. The cable actually came unwrapped, I raised the door, leveled and removed the cable end. I can raise or lower the door by hand but I have not had a lot of experience with these.
Can I loosen the pulley rewind the cable wire and tighten to match other pulley? The spring seems to be on other side.

Originally Posted by cbr549
The cable actually came unwrapped, I raised the door, leveled and removed the cable end.
Not sure exactly what this means...just not visualizing it I guess.
You can replace the cable by putting the door down and locking it in position. Loosen the set screws on the drum..re-insert the cable end into the slot, wind the cable opposite of the other side. (large diameter to small) Put as much tension as you can on the drum, then tighten the set screws.
If you have access to do this in the up position, it would be better as there is less tension on the cables then.
This is only a temp fix...like using a mini spare on a car. It really needs to be un-tensioned, the drums adjusted then re-tensioned.

Yeah thats what I'm talking about.I can do this with door up or down. Easier access with door down though. I'll try it!
Thanks

Remember...I said this is a temp fix to get you (hopefully) working again. It still needs to be adjusted correctly.
One last thing...inspect the drum and cable for any damage. If you find anything...call a PRO!.

Hey gunguy45, I kept looking and thinking about how you suggested I repair that garage door and finally figured it out.
I raised the door about half way, so that the notch on the spool for the cable was easily accessible, chocked the door under that side that came unwound with a saw horse.
At this point the cable is completely off the door.
Re-wound the cable on the spool end in the correct direction!
I then manually pushed the other side down until the door was level and then just a hair more
Used vise grips to hold that side in place. This allowed me to re-attach the cable to the bottom of the door.
First I removed the saw horse and then the vice grips and viola, it worked perfectly.
Never had to remove or loosen anything except the cable that was already off.
Thanks for your input though!

This is the best thread and post in response to the question of rewind your garage door cable on the entire Internet (IMHO)!
First, it correctly instructs you on use the mechanical advantage of the garage door pulley in order to deal with the tremendous force of the garage door spring.
Second, it mentions a method of keeping the wound side in check, so that one person can do most, if not all, of the entire job (the vise-grip suggestion).
I had my wife (not a lot of strength there) focus on keeping tension on the unwound cable while I respooled it with the door in the up position and then had her assist slightly with maintaining proper door position while I reconnected the cable. The M.A. of the pulley adds all the extra power you need to slip the cable on against the tension of the spring. It is possible to do the job by yourself, if the proper caution is utilized.
Right on!


Tags: garage, door, cable, came, garage door, other side, raised door, with door, actually came, actually came unwrapped

Craftsman Eager1 Push Mower Won'T Start

I have a Craftsman EAGER-1 lawnmower, model 917.383242, and it won't start. It has been used several times already this year, and starting was not a problem at all until today. (And it has been running great; no stalling or sputtering. For what it's worth, I ran the mower last fall until it burned up all of the gas.) It has fresh gas in the tank, but my (20-year-old) son tells me that, when he pushes the primer button, it does not feel like there's any liquid being moved.
Guessing something's blocked in the fuel line, but I don't know enough about engines in general to know for sure, or even determine the problem and fix it. I had my son pick up a book (Walk behind lawn mower service manual; looks like it covers all of the major engine manufacturers) at the local library so I can have something to look at by the time I get home tonight.
I asked my son to identify the engine's manufacturer, like Tecumseh or Briggs Stratton, but he said there was no label on the engine, only some code that looked like 143.44010 4244J. I chatted with a Sears Parts Direct salesperson online, and he said this mower's engine was manufactured by Craftsman. I didn't realize Crafsman manufactured lawnmower engines, but I see it as one of the manufacturers listed in the aforementioned book's Contents section online.
Ideas, advice welcomed!

Hello Dan400Man,
The engine number you posted isn't valid, Look on the front of the top cover just above the spark plug. There should be a 143. number stamped there.....
This engine wasn't built by Craftsman but by Tecumseh, While your getting the number off the front remove the air filter. Shine a flashlight up into the throat of the carb, You will see a brass tube sticking up about 1/8 in the center. While watching this tube push the primer bulb 3 or 4 times and see if fuel bubbles up out of this tube.
The primer bulb doesn't pump fuel, It pumps air into the float bowl pressurizing it thus pushing the fuel up through this brass tube.
With the proper engine numbers and results of the above test we will know where to go next.
Good Luck

I got home Friday night, pushed the primer button a few times, and it started right up for me. I was able to feel fuel/air moving when I pressed the primer button, but the mower had been sitting at an angle where a tank low on fuel might have had nothing to go in the fuel line and, as it turns out, it was a bit low. So, I moved the mower to a flat surface before I tried pushing the primer button. Also, I noticed the air filter was in serious need of replacement, so that might have been an issue when the boys tried to start it. Otherwise, it started and ran fine.
I probably didn't need to post all that, but I wanted to acknowlege and thank 31YTech for his advice and suggestions!

Your welcome Dan400Man,
We're here to help if possible, no matter how small the issue.....
Tags: craftsman, push, mower, start, primer button, brass tube, fuel line, might have, primer bulb, this tube

Beckett Afg Oil Burner Pressure

Hi to the group,
I have a Beckett AFG Oil Burner that is less than one year old.
This unit has been pretty unreliable .
I have had to call for service 4 times in less than a year because the burner would not ignite.
The original installer kept coming up with excuses so I called another service company.
The net result from the last service call is that the technician lowered the pump pressure to 100 psi , adjusted the airflow and igniters. The unit is currently working.
Does anyone know if setting the pump pressure to 100 psi is OK for this type of unit?
Many Thanks in Advance.

Yes it is OK for the unit but they burn cleaner at the higher pump pressure. Better air fuel mix at 140 psi as compared to 100 psi. It should be able to run OK at 140 as most boiler and furnace manufacturers are requesting higher pump pressures today to assist in overcomming tigher heat exchangers.

Is that a new burner in an old boiler ?
I suspect that it came through set at 140 ... and as such, the nozzle should have been sized smaller to arrive at the same 'firing rate' as the old burner was.
Nozzles are specified at a certain flow at a specified pressure. That pressure is 100 PSI. So a 1.25 nozzle would flow 1.25 ONLY at 100 PSI.
If your boiler has a firing rate for example of 1.00 GPH, then that's the size nozzle you would use if the pump were set at 100 PSI.
To run the pump at 140 PSI, you would simply refer to a nozzle chart that would tell you what size nozzle to use to achieve 1.00 GPH at that pressure. It might end up being a 0.85 nozzle as an example.
So, what is the firing rate on your boiler ? (look at the data plate on the boiler).
What size nozzle did the tech install ?

This really sounds like a case of someone not knowing what they are doing. I will admit there are those special cases that can be quite dumbfounding, but the Beckett AFG burner is the simplest burner to work with in my past experience. I can not see why someone would need to lower the pump pressure to 100psi. That is the setting older burners were set to run at, but as time went on, engineers have determined that the 140psi at the nozzle was much better at solving some of the problem firing of those special case problem burners.
As I said, there are those special cases.
More information about the boiler age, make, model number, meaybe combustion chamber size, and type of venting (power, direct, or chimney vented) would help in finding a solution.

First of all I would like to thank evryone for their replies. They were very informative.
Unfortunately, my furnace will not ignite this afternoon. It worked fine last night and this morning.
I am a bit frustrated since this furnace is less than one year old.
I do not know the nozzle size or firing rate.
Would the pump pressure prevent the unit from igniting?
Thanks again to all

Originally Posted by dobrycki
I am a bit frustrated since this furnace is less than one year old.
If this unit is only a year old, there was no reason to change the pressure to 100psi.
Get a new heating tech.

I do not know the nozzle size or firing rate.
Would the pump pressure prevent the unit from igniting?
Look at the manual for the boiler that the installer should have left for you, or the DATA PLATE on the boiler.
The pump pressure in itself won't cause the boiler not to fire, but if the guy who worked on it didn't change the nozzle to match the pump pressure, he screwed up ...
In fact, it sounds like they don't know WTH they are doing, as PG said, find a new service guy... tell him what the other guys did ... be careful though, it might be his brother!

Is this a new boiler or just a burner retrofitted into an old boiler? If new, please supply the make model number. We can look up the factory settings.

It sounds like a simple problem to solve if you have basic mechanical abilities. You can go to the home page for Beckette oil Burners and pull up all the tech. info. for your oil burner. It is very self explanitory. To know the basic theory of steam generation and oil burner operation; which can be obtained on their website, makes troubleshooting so much easier. The problem today with alot of Oil Burner Tech. is that if it does not work, just replace it and not solve the root of the problem.
If all else fails, call Beckette yourself and inform them of the variouse problems you are have with their product that is lesss than a year old. Best of luck to you.

If this is only one year old it's got an electronic ignitor and primary control. The pump pressure may be a red herring. If the electrode setting is off the spark can jump to the retention head and fail to ignite the oil. You may also have an intermittent problem with the solenoid in the CleanCut pump or, since the primary has a separate relay for the ignitor, the control itself.

They should put everything back to manufacturers specs. Has anybody done a combustion test. Maybe there is too much air on the burner. What is the draft? Have them check the Z dimension. I find about 50% of the burners have a wrong Z dimension setting. One oil line or two. If two what is the vacuum?
As Grady asked what is the model number and manufacturer of the product.

FYI Guys...Old Post -

I have 2 beckett electrodes setting gauges T501 and T231.The distance from the center of the nozzle to the tip of the electrode is 5/16 for F head on the
T501 and 7/16 on the T 231 for F head.Does anyone know why this difference?

The difference is old (7/16) vs. new (5/16) specs. Instead of having different electrode set-ups for different heads (F, L, V) Beckett standardized on the 5/16 for all. You also get faster cleaner ignition with the electrodes at 5/16.


Tags: beckett, burner, pressure, pump pressure, firing rate, than year, less than, less than year, model number, size nozzle, sounds like, those special, anyone know, Does anyone

3way Switch Confusing Wireless Fan Control

Hi Everyone,
I have a Minka Aire fan all installed on the ceiling - that part was pretty straight forward. Now that I crack the decorator plate off the switch I realize that it is configured as a 3-way switch, and it is somewhat confusing to me (the non-electrician).
I put a picture up of the box here:
DSC02868 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Where the fan is installed (used to be a light), well, that switch is the rightmost one (three wires going left in the picture, red, white and black).
The switch that I need to connect is a model UC9040T, and it has three wires, two of which have labels:
1. Ground
2. [Black-To Power Supply-Do not connect to neutral white wire]
3. [Black-To Fan-Do not connect to neutral white wire]
Not sure what to do inside the box (picture) to successfully connect wires 2 and 3 on the switch.
Thanks.

We need a photo that shows the switch not just the wires.
Where the fan is installed (used to be a light), well, that switch is the rightmost one (three wires going left in the picture, red, white and black).
Which sounds like a three way switch or duplex switch.
The switch that I need to connect is a model UC9040T, and it has three wires, two of which have labels:
1. Ground
2. [Black-To Power Supply-Do not connect to neutral white wire]
3. [Black-To Fan-Do not connect to neutral white wire]
Which is not a three way switch and can not be used with out re-wiring the circuit or using a different switch if available for your fan. If it was a duplex switch not a 3-way then it can be used.
Was the light previously controlled from two switches at different locations? That is a three way switch. Check if the manufacturer of the fan provides them. If only in one location was it a duplex switch, were there two toggles on the switch you removed?

Thanks for the help Ray, much appreciated.
More pictures uploaded to:
Sep 19, 2010 - a set on Flickr
I've labeled them, but to be thorough:
1. First of face of switch.
2. Same as first in thread, but with switch in view
3. Digging around the house I found the other switch behind a plant.
Was the light previously controlled from two switches at different locations?
Yes, precisely. We don't really care for the one I discovered just now, and the fan itself is actuated by wireless communication.
Is there a way to rejigger things such that the manufacturer switch can be made to work? They don't make an alternative, and this is a damned expensive fan.

Take the black from the old switch and connect it to the fan wire of new switch,
Take the black to power supply wire of the new switch and connect to all the blacks hooked together with that big blue wire nut.
Cap off the red and white wire of the old switch, note: 3 way will no longer work behind plant

All done, worked like a charm -- thanks for the help guys. Where I am definitely someone to research problems, home electrical is just somewhere I'm not willing to take any risk. Where trial and error is not an option, especially where my family's safety is concerned, it's nice to have a place like this where folks such as yourselves can help.
Thanks again.


Tags: switch, confusing, wireless, control, white wire, connect neutral, connect neutral white, connect neutral white wire, neutral white, neutral white wire, three wires

Why Does My Faucet Lever Keep Dropping

There are several reasons why a faucet handle droops.

If you own a single handle kitchen or bathroom faucet you may find the handle drooping, or falling down towards the sink. Many faucets today are designed with performance in mind. However, some parts will wear out and issues such as drooping handles start cropping up.

Handle Wear and Loose Set Screws

A worn out handle is one reason your faucet handle drops. Handles have a small round hole on the bottom where it mounts to the cartridge stem, a round rod on top of the cartridge. If this hole expands, or breaks, the handle will not stay in the upright position. This is because the mount hole no longer fits flush to the stem. It therefore drops down as gravity pulls it towards the sink. If the set screw on the back of the handle is too loose, this also causes faucet handle droop. This is the screw securing the handle to the stem. If it is loose, the handle droops because the handle is not securely fastened on the faucet stem.

Cartridge Wear

Another reason the handle droops is due to the cartridge. The cartridge stem, a rod sticking out of the faucet cartridge, is the only thing to which the handle is secured. If this stem breaks or wears down, the handle will droop because the mount hole is now larger than the stem and does not fit properly on the stem. This is a similar problem as a worn out handle mounting hole, except there is a different way to fix this issue.

Causes of Broken Stems and Handle Mount Holes

Using too much force on the faucet handle causes both issues leading to handle droop. When kitchen faucet handles are flipped up or pushed down too hard, the mounting hole in the handle expands or cracks. If too much force is used on the handle while opening or shutting it, stems may chip, crack or break. Corrosion also plays a role in stem and handle wear. It accelerates cracking and breaking by eating away at the metal parts.

Fixing Handle Droops

When a handle droops there is a simple way to fix it. If the set screw is loose, simply lift the handle and tighten it with an Allen wrench until the handle does not droop anymore. If this does not fix the problem, take out the set screw in the handle with an Allen wrench and pull the handle off. Look at the bottom of the handle. If it appears worn out, broken or cracked, replace the handle. Also, look at the stem. Clean off the corrosion and sediment deposits. If it is cracked or broken, shut off the water to the faucet and unscrew the faucet bonnet cap. Slide the cartridge out and replace it with a new one that has a new stem. Then replace the bonnet and handle and tighten the set screw.

Tightening A Moen Monticello Faucet

Moen is an American company that started manufacturing faucets in the 1930s and '40s. The founder of the company designed one of the first single-handle faucets; as of 2011, Moen makes a large selection of single-handle and dual-handle faucets for the kitchen and bathroom. The Monticello line of Moen faucets offers traditionally-styled faucets for lavatories. Over time the faucet may become loose or leak and will require tightening of the various retaining nuts, set screws and water supply fittings.

Monticello Faucets

The Monticello line of faucets is what the company refers to as widespread. A widespread faucet gives the impression from the lavatory sink deck that the fixture is actually three separate units. The hot and cold valves and the spout are all mounted in separate holes bored into the sink deck or the vanity counter top. All three pieces are connected underneath the sink or counter top with flexible hoses and fittings. Tighten the fittings on the connector hoses with an adjustable wrench if you suspect a leak from this area.

Faucet Handles and Spout

The faucet handles and spout attach to fittings that are mounted inside the sink deck or counter top. Set screws hold the pieces firmly in place. The set screw on the spout is hidden behind a small cap on the lower backside of the spout. The cap can be removed by prying it off with a small, flat head screwdriver. The set screw can be tightened with the small hex key wrench that came with the faucet. If you do not have the original tool, hex key wrench sets are available where tools are sold. The faucet handles can be tightened in the same manner. The levers of the faucet handles are manufactured separately and are threaded into the base of the handle. Twist the levers in a clockwise direction by hand. If you decide to use a tool -- such as pliers -- to tighten the levers, protect the finish with a rag.

Retaining Nuts

If the spout or the hot and cold valves seem loose after tightening the set screws, the next place to check is underneath the sink deck or counter top. Large retaining nuts hold all three pieces firmly in place. Over time and use, they may become loose. Tighten the nuts with a pair of adjustable pliers. Do not over-tighten the nuts to prevent damaging the threads.

Water Supply

If your Monticello faucet is leaking underneath the sink, the culprit could be the water supply hoses that connect the water shutoff valves under the sink to the undersides of the faucet handles. Tighten the hose fittings with an adjustable wrench.

Options For Kitchen Backsplash Materials

Update the look of your kitchen with a unique backsplash.

A backsplash adds function and style to a kitchen. It keeps walls clean of food and moisture and adds a decorative accent to complement cabinets and counter-tops. Backsplash material options available today span beyond conventional tile and include a variety of non-traditional and innovative materials to complete your kitchen and ensure its design is current.

Thermoplastic Panels

Thermoplastic panels are made of a synthetic material, which is made to look like plastic. They come in a variety of styles from plain and patterned to more ornate designs. The panels come in sheets of 18 inches by 24 inches, which are installed using double-sided adhesive tape. Although the panels are fire retardant, extreme heat can cause them to warp, and as a result should not be installed behind a stove. Thermoplastic panels are suitable for most kitchen design styles, but especially modern ones.

Tin Tile

Tin tile offers a classic look suitable for country-style kitchens. Tin tile are installed as panels, which can be cut to accommodate various size spaces. They are generally available in at least six different styles with the design repeated on each panel tile. Tin tile comes in a variety of colors. You apply them to the wall using liquid nails.

Beadboard

Beadboard is a classic backsplash. Although it's most notably found in cottage kitchens, it also works well in traditional and modern kitchens because of its simple vertical lines. It's made of wood planks that have tongue and groove joints that fasten together. You can purchase them in various wood finishes, such as maple, oak and cherry or buy them in natural wood and paint them white or a color to match your kitchen d cor. It usually takes as many as three planks for a 10-foot section of backsplash, states Suzy Renovator. One drawback of beadboard is that planks you can paint require periodic repainting every year or so to keep them looking their best.

Wallpaper

Wallpaper is an inexpensive backsplash option. Most wallpaper comes with an adhesive backing that is applied in a peel and stick fashion to the wall. Certain wallpaper companies produce styles that resemble tile or metal to imitate the look of these materials without the high cost. One downside of wallpaper is maintenance. Although most food spills can be removed with a clean, damp sponge, oil does not come out as easily and could permanently damage the backsplash.

Troubleshoot A Marine Shifter Cable

Transmission shift cables are typically found on stern-drive and inboard marine craft.

Shifter cables on marine craft provide the function of selecting the transmission gears that provide forward movement, neutral and reverse. The cable connects to a shifting lever at the cockpit location and runs along the rail or bilge gutter to connect at the linkage on the upper case of the motor. Shifting cables, although adjustable, can suffer some problems that impede or stop the shifting process. A boat owner should familiarize himself on the theory and operation of the shifter cable and know troubleshoot any problems that may arise.

Instructions

1. Install a muff flush device on your lower unit and connect it to a garden hose, if you have your boat on a trailer. If your boat is moored or docked in the water, leave it there for the cable shifting test. Make your first visual inspection of the cable condition. Look for any cracks or gouges in the outer sheath material. Any openings in the sheath will allow water inside to rust the cable and freeze it up. Replace any cable that has visible damage. Run your finger along its underside, from the shifter control box to the engine case, feeling for wrinkles.

2. Look for bends or 90-degree angles in the cable along its path. Any kinks will keep the cable from free movement and shifting properly. Check the transom cable mount for loose bracket bolts and the security of the fastening mechanism that connects the cable end to the shifting cams on the engine. If the cable is secured to the engine case by a cotter pin or nut, make sure they are installed correctly and tight. Tighten the flange nut that holds the sheath against the mounting bracket with an end wrench.

3. Use a screwdriver to remove the shifter box housing. Check the shifter box mounting bolts which hold the mechanism to the bulkhead and tighten them with a socket and wrench or screwdriver. Ensure that the cable connected to the shifter lever is secure and tight. There can be no excess play in the transom bracket or inside the shifter box which allows physical movement.

4. Start the engine and let it warm up in neutral. Cast off any lines. Shift the lever into forward gear and let the craft move forward. If the motor stalls after shifting into the forward gear repeatedly, inspect the small micro-switch on the transom bracket. The switch is called an interrupter switch, or kill switch. The switch can not be bent or disabled, because it assists in changing the pattern from forward and reverse to neutral. If the shift cable is stiff or binds for any reason, the switch will sense the tension and over-kill, stalling the engine.

5. Shift to neutral to see if the engine remains in gear. If the shift lever heavily resists, and you must use great force to position it in neutral, it indicates the cable has bound in the sheath, and the interrupter switch has failed completely. This results in a shifting lever that goes from forward or reverse gear, bypasses neutral completely and slams into the opposite gear. Consult your service manual for the proper switch replacement design and replace it. Any heavy tension required to move the shift lever into any gear, indicates a bound or dry cable -- replace the cable.

Replace A Cartridge On A Moen M7500 Faucet

Replace a Cartridge on a Moen M7500 Faucet

Although the Moen website does not list any entries for the M7500 series of faucets, this series is identified on merchant sites as being part of the Chateau kitchen faucet collection--the 7400 series on the Moen site. The faucets in the 7400 series feature a chrome finish, swivel spout and single-handle operation. Faucets in the Chateau collection come with an optional side spray attachment. The valve contains a Moen 1255 cartridge that requires periodic replacement to keep the faucet in good working order. Replacing one requires just a few simple tools.

Instructions

1. Turn off the water to the faucet by turning off the shutoff valves under the sink. Open the faucet and let the water drain.

2. Pry off the button that hides the retaining screw for the handle with a slot screwdriver. It is on the body of the handle, just under the lever.

3. Unscrew the retaining screw with an Allen wrench and remove it. Pull the handle off the end of the valve stem, then pull off the dome that hides the retaining nut for the cartridge.

4. Unscrew the cartridge retaining nut with slip-lock pliers. Discard the nut when you remove it because you'll have to use a new nut for the new cartridge. The cartridge and nut are supplied together.

5. Grip the end of the valve stem with the pliers and pull it straight out. Drop the new cartridge into the valve seat in the same orientation as the old one was in.

6. Screw the new nut onto the valve seat to hold the cartridge and tighten it with slip-lock pliers. Drop the dome back in place, then fit the handle onto the end of the valve stem and screw in the retaining screw. Snap the plug back into place with your fingers to hide the screw.

7. Turn the water back on and test the faucet.

Tips Warnings

If the cartridge has been in place for a long time, you may find it hard to pull out. If the pliers don't work, use a cartridge puller, available at hardware stores and plumbing suppliers.

The water must be off before you remove the cartridge or you may be scalded by hot water.

Reattach A Boot Sole

Repair your boot instead of throwing it out.

A boot sole coming free from your favorite pair of boots can be disheartening. With the proper materials you can repair the boot by reattaching the sole. This will allow you to wear your favorite boots once more. If you use a waterproof adhesive, your repair may last the remaining life of the shoe, making the repair a cost-effective alternative to purchasing a new shoe.

Instructions

1. Soak a rag in rubbing alcohol, and clean both the sole of your shoe and the material of your boot. Removing any oils or debris will ensure a proper bond. Allow the alcohol to dry.

2. Apply waterproof adhesive to the sole where it has come unattached. Apply enough to cover the surface without spilling out the sides.

3. Place rocks or a weight into the boot to hold the boot and sole together while curing. Allow the boot to set overnight.

Tips Warnings

Use the adhesive in a well-ventilated area.

Make A Ps3 Video With Dazzle

The Dazzle DVD Recorder allows you to record video from an external source and burn it to a DVD-R or DVD-RW disc. You can use the Dazzle with a PlayStation3 to record game cinematics or create a record of your high scores. The Dazzle uses the standard composite video cables that come with the PS3. You cannot use an HDMI cable, because the Dazzle lacks an HDMI input port.

Instructions

1. Plug the A/V cables from the PS3 into the input ports on the Dazzle. The ports and cables are color-coded. Match the cable to the corresponding colored port.

2. Plug the USB connector on the Dazzle into a USB port on your computer.

3. Turn on the PS3 and insert a blank DVD disc in the DVD burner on the computer.

4. Open the InstantDVD software and click Let the Wizard guide me (recommended.) Click Next.

5. Choose Dazzle DVC100 from the Select a video source drop-down menu. The video feed from the PS3 will appear in the screen on the right. Adjust the recording volume by moving the volume slider and click Next.

6. Choose your optical drive from the Detected DVD-Recorders drop-down box. Click Next.

7. Select a menu style if you want the DVD to have a menu. Otherwise, select No. Click Next.

8. Enter a length for the video and select the video quality. You can choose between Good, Better or Best. Higher-quality videos have a shorter maximum length.

9. Click Start Recording to create your video.

Fix Boot Bottoms Separating From The Soles

After time, a soles may separate from the upper boot.

Nobody wants a case of the talking boot. After normal wear-and-tear or excessive heat exposure, the sole may separate from the boot bottom, causing the boot sole to flap against the upper boot. You may find yourself walking funny while wearing boots with a broken sole. Promptly fix the boot with a basic shoe product or an adhesive from a home improvement store before the sole separates completely.

Instructions

1. Clean the boot sole and upper around the damaged area. Apply rubbing alcohol to the separated sole with a cotton swab.

2. Squeeze a thin layer of shoe adhesive between the upper and the boot sole. Push the upper and sole together to hold.

3. Set a filled water bottle into the boot to apply pressure to the drying shoe adhesive. Allow the shoe adhesive to dry for approximately 24 hours.

Tips Warnings

Apply clear silicone caulk to the damaged sole if you do not have a shoe adhesive available.

Clean Hunter Douglas Luminette Vertical Sheers

Hunter Douglas manufactures beautiful, low-maintenance window shades that are easy to clean. Luminette sheers allow light to filter through and still provide lots of privacy. Because Luminette sheers are made from a delicate fabric, Hunter Douglas recommends only some cleaning techniques for them, but don't worry. Keeping the sheers clean is simple if you follow a few guidelines.

Instructions

1. Dust your sheers. Most everyday dust and dirt can be brushed off with a light dusting; rarely do the sheers require more in-depth cleaning.

2. Vacuum your Hunter Douglas sheers with a hand-held vacuum using a vertical stroke if the dirt does not come out by dusting. Start at the top and work your way to the bottom using straight strokes. Do not use a brush attachment on the Luminette series of sheers because it might damage the fabric.

3. Wet a washcloth with lukewarm water and blot any noticeably stained areas on the sheers. Add a mild clothes detergent to the wet washcloth if the stain is stubborn and dab at it. Do not rub the stain. You do not want to risk damaging the fabric in the sheer.

4. Steam your shades with a hand-held steaming attachment to remove wrinkles. Run the steamer from the top of the blind to the bottom according to the steamer manufacturer's instructions. Hunter Douglas does not recommend heavy duty steamers for this since they might cause fabric damage.

Tips Warnings

If your Luminette sheers still seem dirty after your cleaning efforts, contact a professional cleaner to do an ultrasonic cleaning. Make sure the tank is long enough to accommodate the sheer without folding, and that the water does not go over 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Ask the company if they have experience with Hunter Douglas sheers, and ensure the company transports the sheers properly back to your home on rollers.

If you prefer a cleaning in your home, you can hire a company to do an injection/extraction method. Call Hunter Douglas at 888-501-8364 for referrals so you can be sure to get the best care for your sheers.

Apply Joint Compound To A Ceiling Seam

Make ceiling seams disappear with joint compound.

Whether you are installing or repairing a drywall ceiling, one of the final steps will be to apply joint compound along ceiling seams where the sheets of drywall meet. Because you want a smooth effect that seems as seamless as possible, use care to apply the joint compound neatly. When you finish, the ceiling will be ready to receive primer and paint.

Instructions

1. Measure the length of each seam with the tape measure.

2. Cut a length of fiber mesh drywall tape with the scissors that matches the length you measured. Press the sticky side of the drywall tape firmly over the seam with your fingers. Repeat the same process to cover each seam with a length of fiber mesh drywall tape.

3. Apply a 1/4-inch layer of joint compound evenly over the seam with the drywall trowel. Extend the joint compound out beyond the edges of the drywall tape to make it as thin and smooth as possible -- the first coat of compound should be about six inches wide. Smooth the compound evenly along the entire seam and let it dry for the time recommended by the manufacturer.

4. Sand the joint compound lightly along each seam with sandpaper to remove any bumps or ridges that dried in the compound. Try to sand the edges of the compound to feather them into the ceiling surface. Do not sand so much that you make the drywall tape visible beneath the drywall compound again. Wipe the seams with the tack cloth to remove dust.

5. Apply another coat of joint compound to the seams with the drywall trowel. Add another 1/8-inch layer of drywall compound over the first layer, feathering it along the edges to make the edges blend with the ceiling. The second coat of compound will probably be two to four inches wider than the first coat. Allow the second coat of compound to dry completely.

6. Sand the second coat of drywall compound again to make it smooth. Wipe the ceiling to remove dust.

7. Assess the seams to see if they appear smooth and invisible. If you can still see the seams, continue applying thin layers of joint compound with the trowel, smoothing them out and then sanding them smooth after they dry.

Fluid On The Knee Exercises

Fluid on the knee causes swelling and inflammation in the joints and tissue surrounding the knee. While medications such as steroids and NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatories) are available to reduce inflammation and pain, muscle toning and stretching exercises help maintain healthy a weight and reduce pressure on the knee. Exercises can be performed at home, at the gym or with a physical therapist.

Fluid on the Knee

Fluid on the knee, also known as water on the knee, creates swelling in the joints of one or both knees. Common causes for fluid on the knee include arthritis (osteoarthritis, gout), injury from overuse (excessive running or playing high impact sports such as tennis or racquetball) or bacterial infection. Those who are overweight may also experience fluid of the knee because of increased pressure placed on the knees.

Muscle toning and stretching exercises are recommended to those who suffer from fluid on the knee to help relieve pressure and encourage weight loss. Before starting any exercise program, see your physician to determine the causes of knee pain. Bacterial infections need to be treated with medication to prevent the infection from spreading to other areas in the body.

Quarter Squats

Quarter squats help you avoid putting excess pressure on knees while strengthening leg, back and gluteal muscles. Stand with your back flat against a wall. Bend while keeping your back straight. Buttocks should be firmly against the wall. Bend slightly at first and hold this position for at least five seconds. Repeat and bend a little further. Try to repeat this exercise 10 times.

Leg Raises

Leg raises help strengthen hamstring and other muscles in the leg. Lie down on your back and bend the affected knee. Leave the other leg straight on the ground. Raise this leg off the ground at least three inches and hold for at least five seconds. Repeat at least ten times to complete one set. Try to complete three sets at one time.

Stretching Exercises

Stretching exercises help tone and maintain muscle development in legs, thighs and hips. Stronger muscles help distribute and carry weight while reducing pressure on your knee. Stretching exercises include the quad stretch and the hamstring stretch.

To perform a quad stretch, take hold of the foot connected to the leg of the affected knee in your hand. Gently pull and hold for at least 30 seconds. Release the foot. Repeat at least 10 times. If you need to steady your body during the stretch, stand behind a chair and hold onto the back of the chair using the opposite hand.

To perform a hamstring stretch, sit on the floor with both legs in front slightly spread apart. Try to keep the leg of the affected knee straight as you bend forward at the hips. Try to reach your foot. Hold this stretch for at least 30 seconds.

Water Aerobics

Water aerobics is a series of exercises that take place in the water. For those with severe pain, performing muscle toning and stretching exercises in the water reduces pressure on the knee. Water aerobics classes are offered in some gyms, public pools or in many physical therapy clinics.

Antibacteria Solutions That Can Be Used With A Waterpik

Anti-Bacteria Solutions That Can Be Used With a Waterpik

If you have gum disease, a Waterpik is vital for cleaning under the gums, where a toothbrush is ineffective. Waterpiks are also useful in cleaning around braces. Using an anti-bacterial solution, instead of just water, gives a Waterpik the added ability to sanitize your mouth. Review the user's manual to ensure that your Waterpik is approved for use with anti-bacterial solutions. Acceptable solutions for Waterpiks include those that do not contain bleach or iodine.

Antiseptic Mouthwashes

Antiseptic mouthwashes are alcohol-based solutions. Active ingredients commonly found in antiseptic mouthwashes include menthol, methyl salicylate and thymol. Antiseptic mouthwashes quickly and efficiently kill bacteria; however, you may want to avoid alcohol mouthwashes if you are prone to dry mouth, as alcohol absorbs moisture. Many major producers of antiseptic mouthwashes sell fluoride and children's formulas.

Hydrogen Peroxide

If you prefer a non-alcohol mouthwash, use a solution of 1 part three percent hydrogen peroxide and 1 part water in your Waterpik. Hydrogen peroxide has anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and anti-viral properties. In addition to fighting bacteria, hydrogen peroxide is a suitable disinfectant for cuts and sores in the mouth. It will also keep the inside of your Waterpik disinfected.

Chlorine Dioxide Mouthwashes

Used to disinfect public water supplies, chlorine dioxide mouthwash has strong antiseptic properties. Its oxidizing power also makes it effective in fighting halitosis. Chlorine dioxide mouthwashes are sold as either stabilized or active. Active mouthwash is a purer form of chlorine dioxide, whereas stabilized mouthwash is made with a sodium chlorite substitute. For optimum oxidizing ability, choose active solutions.

whirlpool-refrigerator-not-cooling-freezing

I searched the forum for threads pertaining to my problem, but I did not find any (sorry if there was one and I missed it). I saw several folks with problems pertaing to just the freezer or just the refrigerator, but I have aproblem with both...
Whilrpool Conquest Gold
Side-by-side
approx 26 cu.ft.
1999 (been in use since mid-2000)
No cooling/freezing whatsoever
lights work
water dispenser working
I have to be honest, I haven't cleaned under it in a considerably lonnnnggggg time (and I do have pets in the house so there is probably some fur underneath ). I just noticed this late last night and I haven't time to actually move the appliance and check underneath it. Do you think it might just be a matter of dust/fur on the coils underneath (or am I wishful thinking)?
Thank you so much for any help you can offer!

clean the coils and make sure the fan is running under the ref.
Are the coils under the ref warm-hot?
Is the compressor running at all?
any clicking going on?
Might as well throw in the model # too.

Thanks for the reply Joneq!!!
I'll check those things as soon as I get home and let you know. As for a clicking sound, I can answer that now...yes, I have heard a sound like this, but it just sounded similar to the sound the icemaker produces when it is about to fill with water (I have since turned the icemaker off so I will pay attention when I get home to see if it is still clicking.).
I ran out on my lunch hour and purchased that brush made especially for cleaning under the refrigerator. The guy at the hardware store also suggested using an air-compressor or reversing my vaccuum suction and blowing air underneath to really get it clean. I don't have the ability to do either of these things and I'm not so sure I should be hauling my leafblower into my kitchen for this purpose

Hi Joneq!
OK, when I got home, I cleaned the coils thoroughly (who knew that I was missing a dog and he was under there for the past three years
It has been about three hours since I cleaned the coils and it does not seem to be getting colder (maybe not enough time has passed?)
The model number is GD25DIXHS02. It is a 2001 model (I had a brain cramp earlier when I said 1999). The coils underneath are neither warm nor cold. Air is blowing our of the bottom-rear, but it is room temperature. Something is coming on inside, as I still hear a clicking-then buzzing sound (but the icemaker has been turned off).
Any thoughts???

Possibly part #16 ion this page. Part # 17 is the capacitor that the relay adds to the starting circuit to help the compressor start.test the relay first. The capacitor is dangerous. Don't touch it for now.
http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrame...eratorMark=11
I assume the compressor is not running because it can't start. The part is the starting relay.First make sure you have 120 volts at the outlet and at the compressor.
See if this page help you to test it.
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appli...essorrelay.php
AGAIN WITH THE SCROLLING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I am a little confused/concerned about which item that I am looking at is the relay switch and which is the capacitor (since based on the diagram they are both square boxes).
Is the relay switch the white box (approx 1 x 1.5) that is attached to the side of the compressor (which I'm assuming is the large, black barrel - yes, this is the first time I have seen the inside of this appliance )? I removed the white, plastic plate from the side of the part (terminal box?) I believe houses the relay switch. Based on the links you provided, it seems as though I should just be able to slide the relay switch out, but the inside of my terminal box doesn't look like the picture on the link (mine seems much more modern/sleek.) There are four colored wires that run into the part I am looking at. Two of the wires then proceed to run to the fan. Based on this description, is the part in question, in fact, the relay switch? If so, do I need to apply more pressure in order for it to come off of the side of the compressor?

capacitors should only have 2 wires. The relay is in a case.The capacitor looks like it is held in place by 1 screw it would not have wires going to the fan. Stay away from it. Unplugging the ref does not mean it is safe. Do a google search for discharging a capacitor.
You have a solid state[no moving parts] relay you need to remove it and have it tested. If you can't have it tested leave the ref unplugged so it doesn't try to start.
Maybe someone else can help you get it out. It may snap in.

Thanks joneq!
One last (I hope) question. I think I discovered the capacitor (which I know not to touch!). Would the capacitor have 2 wires running from it to the relay?
I think this is beyond my abilities, so I will call in the professional, but I am glad now that I will not sound so stupid when I call. Thank you so much for your help!!!

Yes. The relay adds the capacitor to the circuit via. Don't be too hasty and make the call just yet. There may be someone here who can walk you through it better than me. This is pretty simple to do. I am not nuts about the price of that relay either,but it is more than just a relay.

OK, I'll wait a bit before I make the call and someone else may come along who can help me further. I'm not in a huge hurry. Although this is my primary refrigerator, I have another in the garage. Thanks, again!
(I have to admit, I would be awefully proud of myself if I could fix this on my own )

Right ----and a lot richer to boot. Check your private messages.

It used to be that you could carry a universal relay in your tool box plug it on most compressor to determine that was the problem. Not that way anymore. Things are getting way too complicated expensive. The relay for your compressor is part # 2261636. It retails for $43.62 at APWagner.com.
It does plug onto the side of the compressor. Hopefully that takes care of your problem. However, there is that chance the compressor is bad. Or, the capacitor is the problem. Part # 4387764 -$72.97. The capacitor is the part held on by a screw. I would take the chance of replacing the relay. ( It is listed as the Start-device combination ). If it still won't start the compressor it would be up to you to take the chance on buying that expensive capacitor. Maybe at that point it might be worthwhile to call the repairman let him determine if its the capacitor or compressor. If you bought the fridge in 2001 the compressor should still be under warranty. 5 years on the compressor sealed system. I believe labor is not included though. Too bad everything is made so cheap nowadays. I have an old GE ref. we bought used 26 years ago. Still keeps my beer cold. Dave

Our Whirlpool side-by-side Fridge and freezer just stopped working too. Lights water dispenser still worked. It turned out to be the defrost chip on the circuit board. Found this after taking the control panel off. Didn't have to replace the chip (About an $80 part). It was just loose so we re-soldered it. Both are doing their job now! Good Luck


Tags: whirlpool, refrigerator, cooling, freezing, relay switch, have wires, side compressor, capacitor have, cleaned coils, coils underneath, compressor running, freezer just

thermostat-2-wires-in-1-terminal-seeking-advice

Hi Everyone,
I have Robertshaw 9500 thermostat which has a problem with room temperature stucked at 77 degree. No matter what setting I set at, either lower or higher than 77 degree, the temp is still shown on the thermostat at 77 degree, even after running for 1 hour. And the system does keep on running until I turn it off; producing cold air as normal. (Please note I don't have the fan set ON for continuous run).
So I thought perhaps the thermostat broken; needed to be replaced. I opened up and found the following connections:
RED connected to RC with a factory jumper clip from RC to RH
WHITE connected to W
GREEN connected to G
YELLOW and BLUE both wires connected to Y
B O not used
How is it that YELLOW and BLUE both wires connected to Y terminal? Please see link for pix.
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting
I am thinking of getting another digital, non programmable thermostat from HONEYWELL with same terminals, RC/RH/W/G/Y/B/O. My question is should I connect both YELLOW and BLUE to Y terminal on the new HONEYWELL thermostat? Any advice would greatly appreciated. Thank you all for your time!
Chris

Does the temperature actually drop below 77F after a few hours?
Only 1 wire should be connected to Y - can't tell what the blue wire is for without checking the air handler.

No the temp is stucked at 77 degree. No matter if I set temp higher or lower. System keeps on running, producing cold air until I manually set it off to shut down system.
Any idea Muggle? Thanks for yr time!
Ps I check tomorrow see what's the blue wire connected to in air handler. Pls note system worked fine for the past 2 years until this past Friday that temp stuck problem arises.

If the house cools down drastically but the stat stays at 77F, replace the stat.
Anything by honeywell will do the job - rth4300 is a good option.
Otherwise, the system isn't cooling well and you should get it checked.

Update - I open the control panel and trace the yellow and blue wires. As it turn out, there are 2 condenser unit on the roof, instead of 1 unit. So basically connect both yellow and blue wires to Y terminal to call both condensers once cool setting kicks on. I replaced the old thermostat with Honeywell and everything seems to work fine now. Thank you Muggle for yr help and others for reading #128513;


Tags: thermostat, wires, terminal, advice, please, BLUE both, BLUE both wires, BLUE both wires connected, blue wire, blue wires, both wires, both wires connected, connect both

Ridx Septic Treatment

Hello,
We bought a home about 6 months ago that has well and septic for water and sewer. My first experiences with both of these. We did have the septic tank pumped as a condition of the purchase of the house and inspected. It was said to be in good condition. Just curious if using a product like RID-X is advisable for maintaining the septic system. Any experiences with additives or other maintenance ideas is appreciated.
Thanks!

Welcome to the group.
A cursory search of this forum or a cursory search of the web using google would tell you the same thing.

If you have a conventional septic.(with field lines) It will be ok.
If you have an aerobic septic. Do not put anything like that in it!
It will cause you allot of headaches, and damage to the system.
Travis

Originally Posted by waterwelldude
If you have a conventional septic.(with field lines) It will be ok.
If you have an aerobic septic. Do not put anything like that in it!
It will cause you allot of headaches, and damage to the system.
Travis
It is a conventional system roughly 22 years old. Was looking for a little more feedback......is this product recommended for maintenance, not necessary unless you start to develop problems, good for preventing issues or what?

Originally Posted by Vey
Welcome to the group.
A cursory search of this forum or a cursory search of the web using google would tell you the same thing.
I did search (before posting) this particular forum for rid-x but didn't get anything back. Hadn't tried google.

Traditional septic tanks such as yours, have been in use since 1895 and they are very simple in concept and operation.
Our toilet flows into a water filled tank, where the microbes in our toilet consume most of the solids and turn them into mainly methane gas and carbon dioxide. This process starts the moment the solids arrive in the tank and the process is totally self contained - it requires no outside help, merely an air free anaerobic environment. The remaining liquid flows into a drain field where it undergoes an aerobic process where it is cleaned and passed into our rivers, lakes and aquifers.
Providing you only use the septic tank and drain field as intended, it will go on for years. If on the other hand you allow salt, sodium, alcohol, bleach or any other type of antiseptic to enter the septic tank and kill the bacteria. Then the process will stop.
Then you will have to pay to have the tank emptied.
Perry
The choice is yours. Look after the septic tank and save money.
Use it as a rubbish dump, stop the process, and pay to have it emptied.

Originally Posted by try2diy
I did search (before posting) this particular forum for rid-x but didn't get anything back. Hadn't tried google.
Search | DoItYourself.com

Originally Posted by Perry525
Traditional septic tanks such as yours, have been in use since 1895 and they are very simple in concept and operation.
Our toilet flows into a water filled tank, where the microbes in our toilet consume most of the solids and turn them into mainly methane gas and carbon dioxide. This process starts the moment the solids arrive in the tank and the process is totally self contained - it requires no outside help, merely an air free anaerobic environment. The remaining liquid flows into a drain field where it undergoes an aerobic process where it is cleaned and passed into our rivers, lakes and aquifers.
Providing you only use the septic tank and drain field as intended, it will go on for years. If on the other hand you allow salt, sodium, alcohol, bleach or any other type of antiseptic to enter the septic tank and kill the bacteria. Then the process will stop.
Then you will have to pay to have the tank emptied.
Perry
The choice is yours. Look after the septic tank and save money.
Use it as a rubbish dump, stop the process, and pay to have it emptied.
Sounds like you think an additive like RID-X is unnecessary if the septic is used properly. We are only 2 people here so the pressure on the system is not much. We are pretty conscious of what goes down the drains in terms of gray water and not pouring cooking greases/oils down the drains. We are definitely NOT having ANY issues with the septic so I guess leave well enough alone. I was just curious about the benefits of a product like RID-X, if any. Thanks for your reply.

Originally Posted by Vey
Search | DoItYourself.com
Yeah, I'll spend a little more time searching this site next time before posting. Maybe I need to start at the top instead of just searching in the forum I thought I might find the info I was looking for. Thanks for the tip.

Dumping spoiled milk down the drain will do the same thing as Rid-x and will be cheaper.

Airman...who lets milk spoil? 50 y/o and I still go through 3 gal a week.
Hey btw..yer not south of Richmond by chance are ya?

I am not saying I'm an expert at the septic system thing but I will tell you that if you use a product like Rid-X it could screw up your drain field. I had the same question and went online searching for an answer and when I read that I decided that I'd rather have a septic tank to empty than a drain field that had to be dug up and repaired, which could be very costly. My home was built in 1880 but I don't know when the tank was installed, but I do know it works well and I just called the septic people to have it emptied. The last time I called them was in May 2007, and I'm not even sure I need them right now. I don't use Rid-X or anything like it; I just let it take care of itself.

Ernie, there is a simple way to check if your septic tank needs to be emptied!
Your get or make, a ten foot pole, thin enough to go down the inlet T.
You lower it through the water and feel the top of the compacted sludge, it feels a bit soft. You then make a mark on the side of the pole level with the top of the tank. Take the pole out and measure how far down the top of the sludge is.
The measure from the top of the tank down to the bottom of the outlet T - do this with a short stick with a nail in the side, the nail will hook over the bottom of the T..
Take one measure away from the other and if you have 12 inches of space, or less it need to be emptied.
More than 12 inches and its good for a few more years.
If you measure it in mid summer each year, when its at its hottest/lowest and the coldest time in winter when its at its highest you will soon get the hang of how much it fills up each year, rising during the winter, going down in the summer.
A tip. The bacteria in the tank work best when they are warm, make sure there are no bushes or anything else round the tank that stop the sun from shining on it. If you can, make sure that only the very smallest amount of cold water goes in the tank, as cold slows the action.
Perry

Research on effectiveness of septic tank additives remains biased. There is no product that eliminates pumping of the tank or that can restore soil permeability and absorption. With proper care and maintenance, you don't need septic additives, which can upset the delicate balance of the septic's bacteria.

perry525, thank you for the input. My tank seems to be working very well and in fact it is being emptied or cleaned as I write this. I left it go too long, though, and I must keep better track of it in the future. It was filled to the top and the septic man said it would soon back up into my house. It was last emptied in May '07, which is way too long to wait. I will do better, though. Thanks again for your reply.

Originally Posted by erniebanks
perry525, thank you for the input. My tank seems to be working very well and in fact it is being emptied or cleaned as I write this. I left it go too long, though, and I must keep better track of it in the future. It was filled to the top and the septic man said it would soon back up into my house. It was last emptied in May '07, which is way too long to wait. I will do better, though. Thanks again for your reply.
Wow, I'm no septic expert but it sounds like you have some other issue to have to have it emptied again in about 1 1/2 yrs time.....


Tags: septic, septic tank, drain field, Originally Posted, cursory search, flows into, have emptied, will have, anything like, before posting, have have

Pond Aerator

I need to build an aerator for my pond. The pond is approximately 12 feet deep at the deepest point and is between 1/3 to 1/2 acre in size. I have the 32 foot street light pole to mount a windmill aerator on once I build it. I have the plans for the windmill blades and tail, but I don't know make an effective aerator. I have viewed several aerators on line and like the concept of the American Eagle billows aerator the best. However, I don't have the kind of money to lay out to purchase one, so that leaves me no choice but to try to build it. Does anyone know go about building a billows type air pump? I would be most grateful for any viable construction plans. Thank you for your help.

A wind powered aerator is not a substitute for a powered aerator. The problem is that when there is wind to power the windmill the wind also disturbs the surface of the pond, reducing it's need for aeration. When the wind is calm and especially at night (when winds tend to be more calm) the ponds need for aeration is it's greatest.
But, to answer your question. That is a pretty specific, low volume application so there is no cheap, reliable air pump. You can try building one yourself, either a bellows type from auto/truck airbags or converting an old air conditioner compressor. But, wind and solar powered aerators are very expensive for the amount of oxygen they add to a pond.

I hate to discourage you, but a pond that large is going to need more than a homemade windmill aerator to properly oxygenate the water. If you have electrical power available, your best option is a submersible pump (maybe you can scavenge a heavy-duty sump pump) located in the center of the pond, with the discharge pointing straight up. When the water falls back to the pond the water surface is disturbed, creating air bubbles, which are absorbed back into the pond. In nature this is accomplished on large bodies of water by wave action.

Originally Posted by hoosierneighbor
(maybe you can scavenge a heavy-duty sump pump) located in the center of the pond, with the discharge pointing straight up. When the water falls back to the pond the water surface is disturbed, creating air bubbles, which are absorbed back into the pond. In nature this is accomplished on large bodies of water by wave action.
ESAGE:I do agree with 'hoosierneighbor' I do note that my pond is extremely small in comparison (2000 gallons) I use only the pond pump which one output is attached to a filiter and the other output attached to the 'water fountain' as my only source of Aeration...

Hi esage . . . I have a pond similar in size to yours and I found this post through Google. I also want to aerate my pond. Pilot Dane hit it exactly: the problem is nighttime.
I have the American Eagle windmill. It looks really cool and works as advertised. But my pond is overgrown with plants now, and when the pond needs oxygen the most -- at night when the plants are filling the pond with CO2 -- the windmill has no wind to turn it to pump air into the pond.
It's a catch-22 situation. I have put grass carp in the pond to eat the vegetation, but they have died, I believe because of lack of oxygen. (I have an O2 test kit coming soon, but everything else like nitrates pH, and ammonia checks out OK, so I think now the problem is a lack of oxygen.)
Did you ever get your problem solved? All replies from anyone are welcome!

Windy Millz I would get a proper aeration system. It will probably have a rotary vane pump or regenerative blower requiring AC power. I know they are expensive but not much different than a properly sized windmill, still I would start getting comfortable with a comma in the price.
---
The white amur (grass carp) in my pond are now 10 years old and are pushing 40-42 long. They look like nuclear submarines cruising below the surface. Instead of the weed problem I had long ago now I'm fighting erosion. They have ripped out the cattails and in the evening they come a foot up onto shore to eat the weeds and grasses tearing away big chunks of the bank in the process.

There is a company that makes a windmill air compressor that can pump air into the pond as well as store air for non windy days. A friend of ours had one installed for her pond. I believe it is a 5 hp compressor and can get the pressure up over 125 PSI Im not sure what the name is but I can ask her for the info if anybody wants it

I would be very interested in knowing more about the windmill air compressor she installed. Sounds like a very good idea.

Do some searches online. There are a couple companies that offer wind powered, air pump pond aerators. Unless you are in an remote location without electricity I don't think they are a good option but if the wind blows they can pump air.

This thread is somewhat old and has ran its course. If anyone has pond related issue please start a new thread.
Thanks


Tags: pond, aerator, into pond, pond with, absorbed back, absorbed back into, absorbed back into pond, absorbed back into pond nature, accomplished large, accomplished large bodies, accomplished large bodies water, accomplished large bodies water wave, American Eagle